Only if there was a way to stop my lawn mower blade from getting dull!
But the sad reality is with extensive use over time, the blade will eventually lose its sharpness or may even become deformed. And while you may think you can make up for it by exerting more force during mowing, it’ll do way more bad than good.
Now, I didn’t intend to start off on a grim note, so let me give you some good news: changing or repairing an old blade doesn’t always require you to get professional help. With a little patience and the right tools, you may very well solve the problem at home.
Having dealt with quite a few lawn mowers through the years of my lawn care, I’ve developed quite a liking for DIY maintenance because it didn’t make me dependent on professional servicing.
And then, there’s always the chance of emergencies, which don’t leave you with much time to call the professionals anyway. Hi! I’m Stacy Smith, and today, I have this guide on “how to remove lawn mower blade.”
Let’s begin!
Before anything else, it’s important for you to understand the signs of a dull or damaged blade. After all, the last thing you’d want is having to check it every time you mow the lawn!
Apart from missed grass patches and ragged glass blades that ultimately weaken the plant, a sudden increase in bacterial or fungal diseases can also be telltale signs of a worn-out blade.
On the other hand, a sharp blade performs clean cuts while putting minimal stress on the mower and allowing the grass to heal completely. So, once you spot the signs, you shouldn’t delay sharpening or changing the blade.
On that note, I will quickly walk you through the steps of removing the blade of both push and riding lawn mowers, starting with the former.
I always recommend starting any maintenance work by disconnecting the spark plug wire from the spark plug. Not only does this prevent the motor from starting accidentally, but it also minimizes the risk of electric flare-ups in case the gas or oil comes in contact with the spark plug. Better to be safe than sorry!
For the next step, you will need to support the mower with the help of adequate weight, or even better, a partner. Carefully tilt the mower either on its side or back (towards the handle) to expose the carburetor or air filter and the oil compartment.
This will help you keep a constant eye on whether the oil is dripping on the ground or into the other compartments. Once the mower is titled, keep it supported in that position with the help of the weights or your partner. You may also choose to drain out the remaining gas using a siphon hose, if available.
With everything done, it’s now time to remove the blade. Grab a socket wrench and unscrew the mounting bolt. Try to use a wrench that’s close to the size of the bolt and secure the blade with the other hand to keep it from turning. There may be multiple mounting hardware and washers holding the blade in place, so don’t lose them.
At the same time, don’t forget to note down the orientation of the blade. A good way to remember is by spray-painting the side facing upwards before removing the blade, which will come in handy during reinstallation.
This step will vary according to the condition of the blade. If the blade is dull and requires sharpening, I’d advise using a clean, 10-inch mill bastard hand filer for the purpose. Since most mower blades are essentially made of soft steel, you can accomplish the task in less than 50 strokes.
However, if the blade is bent or has chipped parts, I’d strongly recommend replacing it. That said, you must ensure that the new one is compatible with the mower and is exactly the same size and type. Remember that the wrong blade can cause irreversible damage to the mower and even brutal accidents for the user.
If the mower was in use, park it on level ground, turn off the engine and lock the brakes. Remove the wire from the spark plug and let the engine cool down for a bit. Next, use the highest setting to raise the deck height to get unhindered access to the blade.
Since riding lawn mowers are somewhat heavier than their push counterparts, you must have a proper support system (like a tractor lift) to keep it from falling on the ground. Slide it in the resultant space and start removing the mounting nut on the blade by turning it counterclockwise. You may also need a cheater pipe to prevent it from shifting during removal.
Once the blade is completely detached from the mandrel shaft, it will automatically fall down, so be careful not to get injured. Alternatively, if the blade is too tight, try moving it up and down till it comes off.
Now that the blade is removed, inspect it thoroughly for any damages. Again, you may need to sharpen or replace it as required.
As the last step for both mowers, ensure that the installed blade is functioning properly and doesn’t wobble upon starting the engine. But if it does, there may have been a problem with the installation.
Once you’re satisfied with the installation, allow the mower to rest for about an hour for the oil level to return to normal and check for any possible spills.
That brings me to the end of today’s guide. Hopefully, my efforts have provided all the answers you were looking for.
But before I take your leave, here’s one useful bit of advice: if you’re a first-time owner or don’t have much experience working with machine parts, it may be a good idea to seek professional help. Or, ask for guidance from someone who is experienced in this regard.
I’ll see you another day. Till then, happy gardening!
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