If your water is running too hot or too cold, don't panic! Just follow this simple way to test the water heater thermostat.
Last week, I took it upon myself to welcome my new neighbor Laura with a classic apple pie. I carefully removed the pie from my carbon steel pan and proceeded to wash it, when my sink started gushing out cold water instead of hot.
Fortunately, the cold water didn't hit my pan, but I was concerned about my water heating system.
Only two things could have happened - the heating system could have malfunctioned, or something could have gone wrong with the thermostat. Either way, I decided to check it myself and found the issue with the thermostat.
Earlier, I would start making calls to a professional whenever the water ran cold - not anymore. I've checked and fixed thermostats a billion times now, which is also why I decided to make a short guide on how to test water heater thermostat.
Hi! I’m Stacy, and here’s a stepwise guide to testing your thermostat. Let’s quickly jump into the items required.
You will need a flathead screw and a digital multimeter. A voltage stick and tape might also come in handy.
Before you check anything, it's essential to turn off the power to prevent any mishap. As they say, better safe than sorry. So, you will need to switch off the main electric panel and remove the access cover of the thermostat.
Now, touch one probe of the multimeter to grounded metal like unpainted metal and connect the other probe to both upper and lower thermostat terminals. The multimeter should indicate zero or no voltage, so you know that it is safe to proceed.
Look at the circuit board and find the breaker for the water heater. Sometimes, this might not be labeled or might be labeled under a different name entirely, so check the instruction manual for the correct word.
After that, you will see two panels on the water heater; one will be on the higher side and the other lower. Behind these are the thermostat and other components.
Next, use the flathead screwdriver to unscrew the covers. Once you remove the top and bottom access covers, you will see insulation with a cutout flap where the thermostat sits.
Flip the cutout flap and make sure it is out of the way. Cut out a piece of tape and stick the flap away from the thermostat temporarily so that it doesn't fall while you are working.
Again use the screwdriver to remove the layer of covering entirely and place it to the side. At this point, it's always a good idea to double-check the power. To do this, you will have to put a voltage stick against the top terminal and check the reaction.
If it goes off, the power is still on, and if it doesn't, you can proceed safely. Also, don't forget to check both terminals.
Now you have to set the multimeter dial to the lowest setting of resistance. More often than not, there should be a reset button for the upper thermostat. This is the button that buzzes when the water in the tank overheats.
You need to press the reset button to proceed to the next step.
Next, you must disconnect the power wires to ensure the thermostat is isolated. After that, use your screwdriver to unscrew the terminals to release the wire. When I used to check thermostats back in the day, I always forgot to make notes of the orientation. So, be sure you don't make the same mistake.
In this step, you will figure out which thermostat is faulty - the upper or lower one. To begin, start with the upper thermostat by placing the multimeter lead on the reset terminal. You will find this next to the reset button. Next, move the second lead to the left side terminal while the first one is on the reset terminal.
Note the multimeter reading that appears in the upper thermostat. A reading of 1 means that the thermostat has no continuity and needs to be replaced. But, if it reads 0 ohms of resistance, it's working just fine.
After this, move the second lead to the right-side terminal while ensuring the first lead is firmly placed on reset. Once more, if the reading is 0, it’s ok to go, and 1 means it needs to be replaced. Also, be sure to repeat the same steps for the lower thermostat.
If you have noticed the water temperature in your home drop for some time, there could be another reason apart from thermostat malfunction. The other possibility is that the water temperature is set lower or higher than regular, which causes issues with water heating in kitchens and bathrooms.
Conduct a quick check by using the same procedure as Step 8, except, the reading will differ. So, if you get a reading of 0 followed by 1 ohm, it means that the water temperature is set lower. And, if the first reading you get is 1 followed by approximately 0 ohm, the temperature is set higher than required.
So here we have it!
A quick and easy guide for testing the water heater thermostat. I hope the instructions weren’t too overwhelming and you found it useful for your own heater thermostat.
While you are conducting the check, remember that if the thermostat is working fine, it must be a heating issue. These tips will help when you are fixing the problem. However, if you are not too familiar with electric cables, don’t hesitate to call a professional to check out the thermostat.
That’s it for today and it was a pleasure to write this quick guide for you.
Take care!
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