If you deal with electronic components often, soldering is a valuable skill to have.
Whenever there are small mending projects like soldering PCBs, my husband prefers to take care of it at home. I am not as hands-on with soldering, but I’ve had some experience with it recently.
When my husband was helping my niece solder her laptop motherboard, I decided to take notes, so that I didn’t forget the steps after a while. Once I’d finished writing it down, I thought I might as well share the process with my readers too.
Hi! I’m Stacy Smith, and today you’ll find out all you need to know about PCB soldering. So, what is the PCB Soldering process? Let’s find out.
Before you can work on soldering, your soldering iron tip must be in good shape. This is achieved by a process called “tinning,” which means to cover the iron tip with solder for best results. A tinned iron tip will transfer heat more efficiently and will save a lot of your time.
Next, you need to heat the iron tip to the right temperature for tinning. This is an important step, especially if the device is new. I’ve noticed that brand new iron tips always need this step because they come in a protective coating which hinders soldering.
Prepare your workspace by placing an old piece of cardboard beneath to catch any spills. Additionally, keep a wet sponge ready in case you need it during the soldering process.
Now, coat the soldering tip in solder, making sure you cover it in entirety. This process might take a larger amount of solder than you anticipated, and some of it will drip from the tip too. The risk of not soldering properly is that once you dip this tip in flux, it will collect the flux and reduce its heating properties.
I like to wipe the iron tip with a wet sponge after I’m sure it has been coated well. But this step needs to be carried out quickly, or the residue will dry and form a lump.
To get a strong joint, the circuit board surface needs to be clean and ready. I use a gentle scrubbing pad to clean because it removes the dust without harming the PCB material. You can use industrial-grade pads like me or get a steel wool pad which will get the job done just as well.
While cleaning, scrub gently so that the steel wires do not get lodged into the board. After this step, use some acetone to remove any remaining chemicals on the surface. Next, dry the board well either by leaving it aside or by blowing air with a machine.
If your circuit board is small with only a few components, this step will be fairly simple for you. Even then, you should be soldering each area one at a time, which is the standard procedure. I learned from my husband that soldering the flattest and smallest components like resistors first is the way to go.
After you’re done soldering the smaller components, you can move on to the bigger parts like capacitors. This way, the board stays flat and is stable enough for you to work for long stretches of time.
Now we begin with the actual soldering; first, take some solder on the iron tip while it is heating up. This is not the solder used to fill the joints, but it will ensure the iron tip conducts heat well.
Next, place the hot iron tip on the component and the board, which will heat the joint. If the board isn’t heated correctly, the solder will not grip. The solder sitting on the iron tip will allow contact between the circuit board and the soldering filler.
A minimum of two seconds should be enough to heat and solder most objects, but thicker boards and components may need a few extra seconds. If you overheat the board or pad, there will be bubble formation on the heated surface. This is your indication to pull away immediately.
After the component and board are heated sufficiently, it’s time to add the solder to the joint. Begin by touching the tip of the solder to the solder pad or component while avoiding the iron tip. The solder should flow like a liquid all around the applied area if the temperature is correct.
Keep adding small amounts of solder till it sits like a round liquid blob on the joint. After the surface is completely covered with solder, stop adding more solder and remove the iron tip right after.
Now it will take some time to become firm, so ensure the board doesn't move, or the hot solder will spill. An incorrect solder will look dull and opaque. If that happens, place the iron tip for one more second on the solder, and it should become shiny and smooth.
After completing this process, check all the joints to ensure they have been soldered properly. Remove all excess solder with a pair of side cutters. My husband removes all the extra flux from the board after soldering. You can use any solvent like methyl hydrate with a cloth to remove the flux and residue. Lastly, keep the board aside to dry before using it.
Once you get the basic steps correct, soldering PCBs is pretty easy. With my recent observation of PCB soldering at your disposal, I hope you find the knowledge useful for any soldering project.
One piece of advice I have for beginners is to double-check for safety because hot solder and iron tips have very high temperatures. The soldering iron can go upto 350 to 400 degrees Fahrenheit which can cause severe burns if care is not taken.
Ensure you have a spacious, well-lit, and clutter-free work area where you have the freedom to work with care. On that note, I’ll take your leave, bye!
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