March 25

How To Thin Water Based Paint

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Only if your DIY painting projects were a bed full of roses!

No matter how enticing the idea of painting your walls or fences with your own hands seems to be, there’s a ton of hard work involved. And I’m not just talking about getting the right tools and achieving that professional-level finesse.

I have always felt that the most challenging part is thinning out the paint for the right viscosity. Of course, some of you may be lucky enough to use the paint as is, right out of the container (test the viscosity for that). But not everyone has that luxury. 

So when my readers flooded my mail with queries about thinning water based paints, I decided not to delay documenting the process anymore. Hi! I’m Stacy, and today, I’ve curated this extensive guide on how to thin water based paint.

Let’s start with the proceedings!

How To Thin Water Based Paint?

What Should You Use To Thin Water Based Paint?

Unlike oil-based paint that can only be thinned with petroleum or mineral-based thinners, water based (or latex) paints should be thinned with, well, water. Water is known as an universal solvent, and as such, leads to a uniform blending of the paint for the desired consistency. On that note, let’s dive into the thinning process.

Tools/Materials Needed

  • Latex paint
  • Water at room-temperature
  • Fluid measuring cup
  • Wooden stick for paint stirring 
  • Fine-mesh cone strainer
  • Viscosity cup (optional)
  • Metal power spiral mixer (optional)
  • Cordless drill (optional)

Steps Involved

Step 1

Before anything else, I’d advise you to acclimate the paint to ambient room temperature, not more than 50 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Cold paint flows more freely and doesn’t require as much thinning, thereby saving time and effort. But if the paint becomes too cold, it can give a false impression of requiring thinning.

Step 2

The next step is to mix the paint thoroughly while in the container. You can avoid this step if you have bought it fresh from the store where it has already been mixed. But if you’re taking the paint out from storage, the solids will invariably settle at the bottom, making it difficult to  gauge the real consistency.

Here, you can start mixing the paint with the wooden paint stirrer, up to the point where you face no resistance in taking out the stirrer. I prefer using my metal power spiral mixer attached to my cordless drill for this purpose and use the stirrer to check how well the paint is mixed. If the stick drags at the bottom, it will need more mixing.

Step 3

After mixing, check the paint for any solid chunks or film that may have developed over time, which cannot be dissolved by thinning. Pull out larger pieces with the hooked end of the paint can opener and strain it through a fine-mesh cone strainer to get rid of the rest of the impurities.

Step 4

With the prep part over, it’s now time for thinning the paint. Pour out the desired amount into a clean bucket or container. Try not to take out a lot more than you need as it will thicken again if left idle for too long. Moreover, thinning paint in smaller batches helps achieve accurate results.

I add around 1/4th cup of water into the paint each time while stirring slowly with the wooden stirrer. However, the amount may vary according to the initial and desired consistency. Most manufacturers cap the amount of water at around 8 ounces per gallon, but you should always refer to the brand instructions. Be gentle with the mixing to avoid creating too many air bubbles. 

Step 5

Once you think the paint has thinned enough, check its viscosity before painting. Since my husband is an avid DIY-er, I have an industrial-grade viscosity cup handy at all times. If you don’t have one, you can substitute it with a kitchen funnel. 

Using a clean, disposable cup, pour some thinned-out paint through it. If the paint has thinned out well, it won’t clog the exit hole and flow smoothly. If it clogs the hole or takes significant time to flow out, you will need to add more water.

Even if you’re satisfied with the final viscosity, I’d suggest spraying a spare, similar surface (if feasible) with the same setting on the air gun as you’d do while painting. If the finishing is patchy or uneven, it may require more thinning.

Some Additional Tips

1. Don’t Add Too Much Water

Thinning the paint is a one-way process, meaning you can’t thicken the paint after thinning it. That’s why you should never add too much water at one go. If the paint has become too runny, it’s best to dispose of that part and start afresh.

2. Condition The Paint To Eliminate Brush Marks

If you want to remove brush or roller marks while painting, you can add a water based paint conditioner (like Floetrol) instead of water. You should generally add about 8 ounces of it per gallon, but again, consult the manufacturer’s instructions. 

Never use any petroleum-based thinner for latex paints. These usually go by the name “mineral spirits” or “paint thinners.”

3. Apply Multiple Coats Post Thinning

Since thinning the paint is essentially diluting it with water, the color may wear down, thereby requiring more coats to enhance it. This is another reason why you should test the thinned paint before the final application.

4. Note Down The Proportions

Post successfully thinning the paint, don’t forget to note down the exact quantities of the paint and water (or thinner) for future use.

Bestseller No. 1
1/2 pt Minwax 25555 Clear Polycrylic Water-Based Protective Finish Gloss
  • PROTECT WOOD SURFACES – Minwax Polycrylic Protective Finish protects and adds beauty to your interior wood projects, including woodwork, furniture, doors and cabinets. The clear top coat protects against scratches, spills, dirt and more.
  • CRYSTAL CLEAR FINISH THAT LASTS – The crystal clear finished offered in this protective coating is ideal for use over all Minwax Oil-Based and Water-Based Stains and colors, as well as all wood species including light woods like maple, ash and birch.
  • GLOSS SHEEN – Give your wood projects a sleek finish with this gloss clear varnish. It not only protects the natural beauty of the wood, but offers a shiny, sleek sheen for a bright, modern look. It’s also non-yellowing, non-ambering and low odor.
Bestseller No. 2
Minwax 63333 Clear Polycrylic Water-Based Protective Finish Satin, Quart, 1 Quarts (Pack of 1)
  • PROTECT WOOD SURFACES – Minwax Polycrylic Protective Finish protects and adds beauty to your interior wood projects, including woodwork, furniture, doors and cabinets. The clear top coat protects against scratches, spills, dirt and more.
  • CRYSTAL CLEAR FINISH THAT LASTS – The crystal clear finished offered in this protective coating is ideal for use over all Minwax Oil-Based and Water-Based Stains and colors, as well as all wood species including light woods like maple, ash and birch.
  • SATIN SHEEN – Give your wood projects a sleek finish with a satin clear varnish. It not only protects the natural beauty of the wood, but offers an attractive, classic sheen for a modern and subtle look. It’s also non-yellowing, non-ambering and low odor.

Summing It Up

That’s about it on thinning water based paints!

Hopefully, I have eased all your confusion by this time. So, go ahead and try it! Meanwhile, I have a final piece of advice before bringing down the curtains: if you aren’t sure whether the stored paint needs thinning, check the lid for encrusted paint. 

It’s a prominent telltale sign that the water has evaporated to thicken the paint further. Also, fix the lid tightly after use or replace it with a tighter and better lid. 

I’ll see you next time. Till then, take care!


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